A Look Back at Some of Our Recent LFWM Favourites

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Feel like you were invited too below:

1) Alexander McQueen SS20: A return to the McQueen’s experimental DNA

Renowned brand Alexander McQueen returned to the heart of London Fashion Week in regal style. The SS20 collection, set inside the stately Charterhouse, was an ode to heritage. Serenaded by a pianist under the watching eye of royal potraits, guests were led to the top floor for the presentation.  Exceptional designs showcased from Mcqueen’s 90’s collections – both menswear and womenswear – and the teams frequent travels to Japan. 
 
This seasons tailoring never failed to live up to the McQueen way. Traditional cuts restyled and pieced together to express a dialogue between the female and male silhouette and attire. Delicate broderie anglaise, for example, juxtaposed on a masculine white suit and shirts. Not forgetting a ruffled-applique mens coat, or the pleated half-kilts layered on suit jackets. The result: nothing far from extraordinary. 
 
Designs were laced with handwoven and printed monochromatic calligraphy flowers inspired by artwork. It was hard to miss the beauty of fuschia pink, inky watercolours, X-ray florals and kaleidoscopic prints, all part of the McQueen experimental DNA. 
 
Black tuxedos were draped with over-sized lapels and collars, with crystal embroidery, much like the heirloom of a wealthy dignatry. And if you look closely, you would notice the fuschia classic suit jackets cut in wool mohair.
 
The pieces were finished with chunky jewelry and rings, along with studded heavy city shoes. And in line with the times: bright utility bags, studded money belt bags and backpacks. 
 
The McQueen brand stands strong with a return LFW, a hopeful nod to the city’s beloved citizens. 

2) STUDIO ALCH 2020: Functional Streetwear 

Alexandra Hackett brought all the culture out in attendance for her highly anticipated Spring-Summer Collection 2020. Set in the raw, open and clinically-white LFW showspace, to the sounds of Skepta-BBK induced beats and rhythms, the streetwear designer brought a much-needed identifiable feel. 
Alexandra and Studio ALCH are best known for her successful collaborations with the likes of Nike, Kendrick Lamar, Stormzy, Dave and Jorja Smith. This year featured streetwear label Patta to create signature emblazoned utility vests, jackets and accessories. The designer drew from her love for the reconstruction of plastic-carrier bags and single-use plastics, in aim to draw attention to excessive plastic consumption. 
Garments included innovative and technical nylons, heat-fused polyethylene denims and silk pieces. What struck most was the collections grasp of tactical vibes – from silhouttes to the reflective, insulated and water-repellent materials.
Tones of black, white, grey and neon green for shirts and socks were also on show in preparation for the new direction of streetwear.

With a feature from Boy Better Know’s Greatness Dex and his collaborative harness design, the designer received a well-deserved nod from street culture and the youth.

3) A-Cold-Wall* SS20 brings society and architecture together for fashion

A-COLD-WALL* brought architectural, social studies to the runway in its new Spring Summer 2020 collection. 
Samuel Ross, Emerging Talent winner at British Fashion Awards, founded the collection on four fundamental elements: Clay, lead, water and glass. All were used to represent how dependent we are on these materials and our social interactions that are inherently affected. This season pushed towards a sense of futurism in design. And it was excellently done. Take for example Ross’ experimenting with foundational tones and colors to create the new altruistic culture of fashion for future generations. The desire – or question – that drives Ross seems to be: “How do we create a new staple fashion culture for the future, like the cultural attire of the past?”

The runway models were themselves immersed in the concept, with clay and lead like markings on their face, glossy makeup – almost humanizing each of the four elements with an emotion. A-COLD-WALL stuck to its innate DNA by keeping to its structured, reductive and tactical designs. The brand has become synonymous with its asymmetrical cuts, roping and contortions, and this was definitely on display in preparation for Spring Summer 2020. The new collection featured new fashion disciplines such as body mapping, also draping and pleats to emulate water. 
Ross, designer and self-proclaimed polymath, is renowned for his intertwining of architecture, nature and fashion. The brand remains at the helm of luxury streetwear, from its highly coveted holster utility bags, rain jackets down to its branded socks. Yet still, A-COLD-WALL* is easily recognizable from the rest. Ross continues to push the envelope on what should matter in fashion, and how the architectural compounds that are reduced and refined in society may speak more to us than we expect. “

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